Comments for Soundproofing Company

Comment on Soundproofing Tip: Floor to Wall Transition by Plugz

Plugz — Tue, 21 Feb 2012 13:14:46 +0000

The Green layer is Green Glue Soundproofing Compound. Typical application is two 28oz Tubes per 4x8 sheet of drywall. You can also purchase bulk Green Glue a apply with the Speedload Green Glue Application System to cut cost with large application. Green Glue is highly suggested addition for any soundproofing application. Don't forget Putty Pads for the outlets. All penetrations need to be sealed for maximum results.

Comment on Soundproofing Tip: Floor to Wall Transition by socrates karageorge

socrates karageorge — Mon, 20 Feb 2012 17:18:27 +0000

Nice. What is the “green” detail in your diagram?
Thanks.

Comment on Drywall Assembly vs Clips & Channel Assembly by Plugz

Plugz — Mon, 20 Feb 2012 05:33:10 +0000

The difference between the STC 61 and 63 tests are on the way the receiving side of the wall assemblies are built. The 63 STC results was achieved by adding an additional layer of 5/8" drywall to the receiving side of the wall. Effectively adding more Mass which is one of the Four Elements of Soundproofing. Soundproofing Construction Tips:

Comment on Drywall Assembly vs Clips & Channel Assembly by Socrates Karageorge

Socrates Karageorge — Sun, 19 Feb 2012 18:43:50 +0000

I am in the process ob building a Home Theater room and I plan to use your recomendations.

Please describe the difference between STC 61 and STC 63? The description is the identical for both.

Also, do you recomend leaving a gap between the floor and the vertical walls? What about the ceiling?

Thank you very much.

Comment on Building a Staggered Stud Wall by Jeff Charles

Jeff Charles — Sat, 18 Feb 2012 20:21:31 +0000

Howdy, very interesting information on your site. Just wondering why you call for Acoustical Sealant for your staggered wall example rather than the Green Glue? Also a question about the the 1 X 2 cut from the 2 X 4. Since the dressed lumber is not really 2 inches by 4 inches are you accounting for that when cutting the 2 X 1. In other words is the 1 inch actually 1 inch or the dressed equivalent as in cutting 4 equal size strip out of the 1 X 4 rather than 3 1 inch strips with some throw away. Would it not be better to make the furring strips wider and then weave the insulation in between the studs as I have seen in other examples or even put a second 2 X 4 wall in front of the existing one. In my case 3 of the four stud walls comprising the room as poured concrete. All I want to do is soundproof the room for music, keeping the sound from being heard through the rest of the house and reducing the standing sound wave reflection to get a better sounding music room.. Seems like so many options. With a thick concrete wall do I need to be concerned about having a staggered wall or will a standard 2 x 4 wall with two 2 sheets of wallboard with grren glue applied be more that enough. The ceiling of course would be another matter but at least if not more important.

Thanks for any advice you can give.

Jeff

Comment on Dealing with Neighbor Noise – Soundproofing Your Ceilings by Ted White

Ted White — Wed, 11 Jan 2012 20:36:06 +0000

The best approach would be to cut or grind down nails to within 1/2″. No need to cut them smooth, a rubber mallet will force the little remaining nails into the first layer of 5/8” drywall. No additional leveling is needed. Use 1” drywall screws on that first 5/8” layer of drywall so as not to poke the screws up through the plywood subfloor.

Comment on Dealing with Neighbor Noise – Soundproofing Your Ceilings by Bruce Galbraith

Bruce Galbraith — Sat, 07 Jan 2012 15:42:48 +0000

I am looking to insulate my ceiling and I’m very enthusiastic about your option #2 where you add 2 or 3 layers of green glue and DW directly underneath the subfloor, followed by insulation between the joists and then followed by whisper clips and channels on which is attached another DW/Green glue sandwich. To be on the safe side, I would use 3 layers of DW under the subfloor (with GG inbetween) and 3 more layers of DW (with GG inbetween) attached to the whisper clips. My question concerns the subfloor which is bound to have some surface imperfections or even protruding mails that cause the 1st layer of DW to not be in direct contact with the 1st layer of GG. How do you suggest is the most efficient way to address this? I thought that starting off with a layer of blue foam (pushed through protruding nails might be an easy way to make the provide an even surface on which to put the 1st layer of GG. Does this make sense?

Comment on Furring Channel with Resilient Sound Clips by gyoung

gyoung — Fri, 06 Jan 2012 17:03:50 +0000

I have posted the test data for Drywall Assemblies with the test result for the WhisperClip Sound Isolation Clip and Drywall Furring Channels wall assemblies. Standard Drywall Assembly -vs- Clips & Channel Wall Assembly Thanks for your Question Mark.

Comment on Furring Channel with Resilient Sound Clips by Mark

Mark — Wed, 04 Jan 2012 05:46:47 +0000

Question for Ted White:
do you have any performance data comparison using the clips with 25 gauge channel vs not using the clips with RC1 channel?

Comment on Flanking and Indirect Sound Leaks by Do I need to soundproof my foundation walls? - Soundproofing Company

Do I need to soundproof my foundation walls? - Soundproofing Company — Tue, 03 Jan 2012 00:22:08 +0000

[...] Not addressing this area behind the wall (exposing sound to the joists) is a classic Flanking Pathway Understanding Flanking [...]